Zedomax DIY125 - HOWTO κάνει μια μουσική Syncing το ελαφρύ ρολόι συναγερμών σφαιρών! - Page1
Εισαγωγή
Εντάξει, έχουμε δει μερικούς πραγματικά δροσερούς ελαφριούς σφαίρες προσπαθώντας να κάνουμε αυτήν την μουσική Syncing το ελαφρύ ρολόι συναγερμών σφαιρών.
Αρχίσαμε με Δημιουργία Tod και σύντομα συνειδητοποιήστε ότι 1 θέληση των οδηγήσεων όχι είναι αρκετά φωτεινή στους μικρότερους ελαφριούς όρους αν και ο ελαφρύς σφαίρα του μας αφήνεται σφιχτά λέει.
Έτσι ελέγξαμε έξω RGB φω'τα στο Hackedgadgets.com. Όποιος είναι δροσερός και χρησιμοποιεί το κόκκινο 4, 3 πράσινα, και 3 μπλε LEDs.
Καλά κατά τη διάρκεια της αναζήτησης google μας του ελαφριού σφαίρας HOWTOs, ήρθαμε Περιβαλλοντικές συσκευές σχηματική αναπαράσταση και οι τεχνικές σημειώσεις τους. Καλά λέει ότι με τη σωστή τάση, δεν πρέπει να χρησιμοποιήσετε τους αντιστάτες.
Κατά τη διάρκεια breadboard μας της δοκιμής, αυτό αποδείχθηκε δαπανηρό. Περάσαμε από περίπου 20 τη συμπαθητική υψηλή παραγωγή LEDs που προσπαθεί να ταιριάξουμε με την μπροστινή τάση LEDs… (Alan, χρειαζόμαστε περισσότερο κόκκινο και πράσινο LEDs… hehe)
Καλά, δοκιμάσαμε όλα τα είδη συνδυασμών συμπεριλαμβανομένων 3, 4, 5, και 6 LEDs ανά χρώμα. Στο τέλος, διαπιστώσαμε ότι 100 ωμ με 4 LEDs ελειτούργησαν σωρηδόν αρκετά καλά για όλο το LEDs ανεξάρτητα από το χρώμα και την μπροστινή τάση τους.
Since we wanted this project to be used with various LEDs, we decided to KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) our way to the end.
After we made the actual prototype and put the Orb on top, The 4 LEDs in series worked great even in lots of light.
So best thing I think here is to test your LEDs on a breadboard first before soldering them. Even if the rated voltage of the LED says it’d work, we found that sometimes logic does not always work. Burn test your LEDs at least for 20 minutes and make sure they are still working before soldering anything…
With that squared away, let’s get back to DIY hacking business here.
We wanted to create a Light Orb that would be a mix of Light Orb, some cheap Piezo music, and an alarm clock. We figured these would do very good Christmas presents for our friends and family.
Parts List
- 1 Perry Ellis Drawer from Ross $10
- 1 Light Orb thingee from Home Depot $9
- 1 CB280 $43
- 1 CB280 Mini-Proto Board $24
- 1 CLCD420B $49
- 2 IO Tact Switch $6 for 2
- 1 12V Adaptor $9
- 1 4-pin male connector for LCD connection $1.15
- 4 Red High Output LEDs $ 0.80 for 4
- 4 Green High Output LEDs $ 1.00 for 4
- 4 Blue High Output LEDs $1.00 for 4
- 3 50 to 150 Ohm resistors
(We used 100 Ohm resistors but you could probably use anywhere between 50 to 150 Ohm resistors)
- 5 4.7K Ohm resistors $ 0.99 for 100
- 3 2N3904 transistors $ 0.07 for 10
- 1 Piezo $3.96
Total Cost:
Light Orb: about $80 Light Orb with Alarm Clock Function: about $140
Light Orb Schematics
(Yes, I had to goto a Christmas party, so here’s a rough sketch!)
(No Ratings Yet)
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HOW TO - Make a music syncing light orb alarm clock…
Max shows you how to make a music syncing light up orb clock, he writes - “Okay, we have seen some really cool Light Orbs while trying to make this Music Syncing Light Orb Alarm Clock. We started with……
You can do away with the glass globe which can be hard to find and replace it with a white balloon partially inflated so it makes a sphere. Need some way to fix it down - I have used double sided tape in the past.
You can avoid blowing LEDs by looking for the max current ratings of the LEDs you are using and sizing the series resistors properly. A cheap digital DMM works very well for measuring the LED current if you temporarily put it in series with each string. If you know the nominal forward voltage of each LED you can sum the forward voltages for a given string, and the resistance required is given by (Vcc-Vled)/Iled where Vled is the total of the LED voltages in the string. No more blown LEDs!
Jeff, just say - learn Ohm’s law
lol
and this is too expensive - you can do it exclude expensive Comfile stuff - just use raw ATMEL or Microchip MCU and some cheap breadboard (maybe from same supplier u will buy MCU or Radioshack (not so expensive, but fast)
well if you want to include a user interface, you will need a chip with lots of memory,
so going with a raw atmel or PIC will actually end you up costing more and eventually you will spend weeks on just coding the LCD itself, not to mention emulators and etc…
well, if you take out the LCD, it’s a lot cheaper…
the program was about 22K so it would be very hard to fit all that in a smaller chip,
if you can though, you can always send me a tip!
Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays!
2max
arduino?
just tip
and serial LCD programming not so hard - just take datasheet and do it cheap
yes, we are planning on some future projects with arduino too so don’t worry.
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