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This is the kind of grill I need, the one that lowers its temperature automatically after the steak is cooked.

I am gettin’ hungry…  THis thang is going to change how we eat…steak that is of course, my favorite dish.

LAS VEGAS, USA (AVING Special Report on ‘2008 NATIONAL HARDWARE SHOW’) — <Visual News> Fiesta(www.fiestrabbq.com) introduced its revolutionary touch-screen digital controller grill ‘Blue Ember 650 iQue’ at the 2008 National Hardware Show, May 6 ~8, in Las Vegas.

The Blue Ember 650 iQue features a digital temperature setting that allows optimum control management system including preprogrammed meat settings to cook steak, chicken and more. In addition, it even lowers the grill temperature when the meat is done to prevent overcooked food.

It is available nationwide through selected independent retailers and stores such as Lowe’s, Sears and the Home Depot.

via aving

Whenever I goto Home Depot, I see their paint department using a regular old keyboard with paint all over it.  My bet is that they have to replace the keyboard every other month.  For dirty jobs like that where you will get a lot of dirt or paint on the keyboard, iKey’s Membrane Keyboard will fit perfect as it’s rugged and also comes with a nice rugged touchpad.

The new DT-5K-MEM-TP is an industrial membrane keyboard built to withstand the harshest of environments. Modeled after iKey’s popular 5K product line, this keyboard is manufactured with a hardcoated, textured polyester film that is more rugged than industrial silicone rubber keypads. The mechanical, snap-dome keys provide excellent tactile feedback. The integrated Synaptics touchpad is completely sealed under an extra layer of PVC membrane, which extends the life of the product. Since this keyboard lacks the crevices found between the keys of a regular keyboard, it is extremely durable and easy to clean. The DT-5K-MEM-TP is NEMA 4X certified, which means it can withstand directed hose water, disinfectants, environmental contaminants and heavy industrial use.

[via gizmodo softpedia]

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Step 1

First, you will need a green laser. I recommend anything 125mW and above.

For this DIY, Frank from DragonLasers.com sponsored me a Spartan 250mW green laser. (Thanks Frank!)

You also need a diffractive glass that will distribute the green laser beams. I was lucky that the Spartan comes with it. You could probably use those cheap diffractive glasses from 3D glasses too.

Second, you will need a plastic epoxy. (In the video, I say you need two but you just really need the plastic epoxy as it works really good for everything.)

Third, you need bunch of pipes. I went to home depot and got bunch of cheap galvanized pipes for about $10 total.

Step 2

You need to drill a hole in the center of the diffractive glass, then epoxy it to the motor. Now, I accidently broke the glass and had to epoxy everything. Just make sure to use a real thin drill and go slow so you don’t make the same mistakes that I did.

Then, also epoxy the bottom end of the motor to the 90 degree pipe arm. (Make sure to solder on 2 wires to the motor!)

(Sorry, I forgot to take pictures while doing that…)

Step 3

Build your green laser projector using the pipes and pipe parts sorta like below.

Put all the wires through the pipes so it comes out the other end. (Sorry again, I forgot to take pictures of this step…) Then assemble everything. You can fit the green laser through the T-pipe piece. (For the T-pipe piece, I used a bigger size then used electrical tape around the pipes to stabilize it.)

Step 4

Now you have two wires coming out the other side of pipe. Simply connect that to a 1.5V battery OR you can use a DC adaptor.

Step 5

Once you get the motor running, simply align your green laser and there you go, a simple green laser projector.

You should get nice set of two whirpools of green laser beams.

Now, you could probably add another axis and another motor to get even better animated effects.

I plan to add a microcontroller like CUBLOC or Basic Stamp in the future so stay tuned and subscribe to Zedomax.com.

This DIY was made to experiment with the green laser, so don’t shoot me if it’s not super high tech. It’s supposed to be simple enough so any regular joe can make one. But I promise next time it will be more high tech…

I don’t know about you but everytime I buy a big shoe rack for me and my girlfriend, it breaks down after a month. But here’s a great way to make a shoe rack for any of your walls. I will be moving in 3 days to a new apartment so this is very handy and jit (just in time!) baby!

We bought poplar boards from the trims aisle of Home Depot. We chose boards 1/2 inch thick and 6 inches wide (1/2×6x3) for wide lower shelves and 1/2 inch thick and 3 inches wide (1/2×3x3) narrow top shelves. We cut the wood to size (in our case 22 inches) with the handsaw in the store.

We also bought large and small L-brackets to attach the wood to our walls and appropriate hardware: short screws to attach the brackets to the wood planks (.5 inch), longer screws and plastic drywall anchors to attach the brackets to the walls. I think we used 1.5-inch #6

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